Jur's RV7 Aircraft Factory
3497 hours and counting

Continued rivetting the aft case baffles. Joined the intersection of the cylinder 3 baffle with the rear baffle. Once these are together it becomes a bit more difficult to install the baffle on the engine and you need to be carefull with the cylinder covers not to scratch the tubing on the engine. 

Done with the intersection rivet line.

 Then continued on the CB-706A left aft case baffle to the CB-705A cyl 4 aft baffle. Had to drill out several rivets and reset them. The hole thing is flimsy and not easy to clamp.
Nothing can be set with the squeezer and putting the rivet gun  with an offset rivet set in these thight spots isn't much fun.

 Row done. Here again, certainly not my best rivets ever.

Reinstalled and test fitted the oil cooler once more to evaluate the cutout near the engine mount. 

I was a bit afraid that with the extra angle in the corner, the AN3-42A bolts would become too short, but as you see in the image below they still protrude at least 2 threads past the nutplate so they will be good for service.

 The hole assembly looks pretty cool now that all rivets are in.

Next on the list is the modifications needed on the diffusers. I'm not a big fan of epoxy work but it has to be done so better get over it.
In the previous articles, I already mentioned that the plenum top in the front is lower than the original foreseen height with the bill lane plenum.
If I would use the original height, I can't even get my fingers between the cowling top and the plenum top so I had to lower the plenum cover.
This created the problem that the diffusers now don't fit anymore between the CB-1002B front baffle stiffener and the plenum cover. The top needs to come down about half an inch.
I have to keep the original shape of the diffuser top to fit under the plenum roof. The only way I see this possible is by first copying the shape of the diffuser in a mould and then using that mould to lay up the new epoxy in the diffuser.

I covered the diffuser with wax and the liquid plastic and then layed up some layers of epoxy on top of the diffuser. It will pop of easily afterwards.

 Did the same on the pilot side diffuser. I'll let this dry up and then cut the diffuser tops of

The reinforcement angle is now read for rivetting. I also cut a small cut out for the second rivet on the bottom on the CB-1004A cylinder 4 baffle.

Next I started test fitting the nutplates.. grrrrr... I have been drilling the row of holes on the CB-1004A and FF-713 spacer on the conservative side leaving lot's of edge distance not thinking about the reinforcement angle. When installing the nutplate it interfered with my connection angle. 

 I had to cut a notch in the connection angle and fortunatly, the nutplate was laying nice and flag in the angle now.

In the nutplate below this, the I had en even worse problem. The holes did not line up anymore. In the end I decided the drill a one leg nutplate on one side.
It's an additional rivet holding thingstogether and spacing is ok so I'm happy with it. In the end, the nutplate ears keep the nut in the plate from rotating and it doesn't matter if it's on both side or on one side. Fortunatly the ear spacing on a K1000-3 of a one leg version is the same for the first hole. Otherwise, this would have been a lot of scrap pieces.

Spot the place in the image below. I'll help a bit... the misplaced nutplate ear is the 3rd one from the left in the bottom, then you seen the right ear and an additional hole above it. 

Next I dimpled all the holes. Pay attention to the orientation of the dimples, some go inward, the side ones outwards, the bottom ones stay flat and undimpled. Off course I made the mistake of dimpling them. Your can push back a dimple one time. so no big deal but a shitty day when it comes to making mistakes. I hate that;

The CB-1004C stiffener and the 2 custom pieces: spacer and connection angle ready to go. No dimples here, they get AN470 rivets.

 Put the angle in place, put some AN3 screw in to ensure alignment and started rivetting the angle to the assembly using the pneumatic squeeze.

Definitly not my best rivetting but all acceptable. The image below shows also the nutplates installed.

Something I didn't mention yet. I have also made a stiffener angle on the 2 nutplates for the inner connection of the oil cooler. also made from 1/8" angle.

 Image below shows all rivets set also on the FF-709 doubler 

 Here is a view from the rear side.Only the top row left. These are in junction with the CB-705B oil cooler brace and will be rivetted next.

A big day again in my project. Nothing substantially done but I have hung the propellor on the engine prop hub for the first time.
I kind of wanted an idea how everything would fit together and what is delivered by Catto with the propellor, spinner and saber extention.

I have a 4 inch Saber extention, spool type. This is required for the Sam James cowling installation.
It took a couple of tries to find the way to do this but it's pretty self explanatory once you understand things. The spinner is predrilled and cut and the holes in the spinner plate are also made with nutplates installed. This makes it pretty simple.

Short bolts hang the spool to the prop hub behind the starter flywheel. You bolt these in in a star pattern. I am just doing this temporarily so there is no torqueing involved yet. This will come of a zillion of times. The long bolts holding the propellor and everything forward of the spool extentions are very long. The threads also extend quite far through the extension. This is probably for having enough space if an additional weight plate has to be added up front.

Here is a view with the prop bolted on. This is pretty damned cool seeing this a first time.

Front picture.

Milestone day ! 
This is one of those days that you know mark the timeline of building your airplane. The moment you hang the engine in the engine mount.
After many days of thinking about missing any things on the firewall, I came to the conclusion that this is the right moment to hang the engine and move on to the firewall forward work. There are some more things I need to do on the firewall, but it's not possible to be sure about the exact location to drill large holes in the firewall until I can actually evaluate the position with the engine in place. i'm thinking of the mixture and throttle cable and alternate air cable. Other than those, I'm pretty sure everything on the firewall is in place.

The same thinking goes for the rear of the engine case. Make sure the 45° restrictor fitting for the oil pressure is mounted in the engine case prior to hanging the engine. It's almost impossible to install this once the engine is on the engine mount. Mine was already installed by PMM during engine assembly. While you are at it, also install the other oil cooler fittings in the engine case (in and out). These can also be done later but it's easier now.

First step was to remove the safety straps that held the engine to the wood pallet that was used for transport. I want to keep track of how this was done as this engine is a brand new engine that has not yet been on the test bench. When all is ready, I will need to unhook the engine and bring it to PMM Wingservice to have it running on the test bench for a first time. This has the disadvantage of extra work on removing the engine and all connections again and having to do it again after it has been run. On the other hand, the major advantage is that I do not have to worry about corrosion and idle time of the engine as it has not yet been running. The cylinders are as if they would be in a stock location on a bench waiting for an engine. There has been no movement of the cylinder heads on the cylinder walls and everything has an oil film on it as delivered from Superior Air Parts. Whether building takes me another 3 years or just 1, it won't matter. I'm gladly willing to take that extra work knowing there is no pressure.

The engine was protected well on the front and rear crankcase and supported in the front under the front with some wood block supports. I'll have to keep all this in stock so that I can re use it in the same way when I bring the engine back to PMM.

Using the engine hoist, we pulled it up, removed the pallet and moved it over to the front of the airplane. Alain helped me on this task to keep the engine in position. It's best having some extra hands around when you do this as the engine is heavy and the bolts are not always willing to go in as easy as you think it would. 

The last part of the moving is the most critical as you don't want your magneto's or fuel pump to bump into the engine mount. Having one person moving and another one guiding the engine is no luxury.

Also notice I leveled the airplane in flight mode. This is much easier to position the engine than if it would be sitting on all tyres which would require you to position the engine at an angle. This leveled way makes it much easier.

I found some documentation online from someone who did this before and described the process. I studied this carefully and upfront, had a close look at the barry mounts and dyna bolt set. You can read it following this link https://www.myrv14.com/buildlog/20150917/Engine_Hanging.pdf. Vans Aircraft also has some drawings available which are not part of the standard plan set that you receive with the kit. 

Study the plans carefully, the barry mounts have to be positioned so that the engine rests on the compression side in the bottom and the compression side in the back on the top mounts. The compression barry mounts are the ones that have a step in the rubber. The non compression ones don't have the ribble on it and look like plain rubber. If I remember well, the non compression ones also are a little larger. Also take care that the washers are in the correct locations. The barry mounts come with one big washer in the box. It's good to assemble the order of all this before starting to move the engine and have thing prepared well. I colored the position of the large washer red in the picture above.

There are 2 lengths in the dyna bolt kit. 2 x AN7-43A and 2 x AN7-44A. The longer ones go on the bottom side, the shorter ones go on the top. The difference is not much more than the length of one of the washers.

Start with the 2 top bolts. The first one is very easy... tighten the bolt but don't torque it yet, you'll probably have to loosen them again working on the bottom bolts.
You do need to tighten the first so that the barry mounts compress allowing the other hole to come in line with the engine case. Remember this is a dynafocal mount, the bolts point inwards. If the bolt is not tightened enough on one side, it's impossible to insert the second one. As you tighten the bolts, the barry mounts compress and also position themselves in the engine mount. That's important.

What I found very annoying is that you can't put a socket on the bolt head as the engine mount is in the way.  I used an extension on the wrench but that didn't make it easier.

The engine sometimes needs a bit of persuasion to get it in position :) Although I don't think this did much. Found out later it's more important to tigthen the other side and use the engine hoist to lower or lift the engine a bit in order to get a bolt in.

The large washer goes between the compression mount and the crankcase as a spacer for the bottom mounts. On the top mounts, I have put that washer on the compression mounts under the bolt head as you can see in the image below. The image has both top bolts in place and tightened.

From there on, things went less smooth and it took about an hour or 2 before I got the last bolt in so I did not take any more pictures until it was done.

I'll try to describe the further process I took.

As both top bolts were tightened, I lifted the engine a bit using the engine hoist. This allowed me to slip the barry mounts between the case and the engine mount. Don't forget the large washer between the barry cookie and the engine case. Don't forget the compression side of the barry mounts is against the engine for the bottom mounts. Then I lowered the engine again and after some wiggling I was able to put the 3rd bolt in. I did have to loosen the top bolts a bit though. 

The fourth bolt is the most difficult one. Looking with a mirror through the hole there was no way the bolt would go in. After a lot of moving up and down, I finally discovered my problem : the washer between the barry mount and the engine case was not aligned and the pressure on it is high enough that it makes it hard to move it. After lifting the engine a bit and tapping on it, I could get it more or less into place. 
A second trick I used was to take an old bolt which was smaller in size and grind down into a guide pin. Once I could slide that smaller bolt in, I was able to wiggle it around in order to get that washer and the engine hole into alignment. I put some grease on the final bolt shank and finally was able to put it in with only very light tapping of a rubber hammer.

I was feeling relieved as I bolted the final nut on that fourth bolt.

As final step, I torqued the bolts. These are AN7 which take 450 - 500 inch/lbs. I used the middle value of 480 inch/lbs. The engine will still need to come off as mentioned earlier but the position of the engine is very important when installing the cowling so I torqued it to the final value.

Took some pictures of the plane with the engine in place. This surely is a big milestone and is a "feel good" moment during the build.

Happy camper...

As I had some time left, I took out the fuel throttle body. This comes with a plastic spacer.

The orientation of the throttle body was a bit of a mystery at first but soon figured out what side was the throttle lever and which side the mixture. 
In the image below I installed it on the forward horizontal induction air intake at the cold sump of the engine. In the image below, the throttle lever is the gold colored arm.

Finally I covered the intake with some paper and masking tape in order not to get foreign objects entering the engine.

End of a productive day was off course celebrated with Alain with a good strong Belgian HQ beer.