Jur's RV7 Aircraft Factory
3312 hours and counting

A few years back, I had installed a brake line using some flexible hoses between the firewall brake line exit point and the brake cylinder. 
Unfortunatly, I cut them too short at that time and the line interfered with the fairings so I had to remove them again. 
I no longer had flexible steel breaded hose available so that was problem 1.

Problem 2 is that I found some marks and evidenc of orange rust like color created from the hose mesh at the location where the plastic spacer tubing encloses the hose (used to seperate the line from the gear leg)
The rusty color was inside the plastic tube and definitly caused by the hose mesh and probably cause by humidity conditions in the workshop in winter conditions. 
These findings convinced me to go with the traditional soft aluminum tubing that are on the plans instead of going for new flexible hoses.

The shape you need to form at the bottom side at the brade cylinder is "odd", to say the least. There is no way you can make all this bending with a tube bender.
The reason for this bend is to create stress relief on the tube. If it would be a straight line going to the AN fitting, the tube would flex, crack and break after a couple of landings because of the flexing of the wheel.
The loops allow the wheel to flex without wearing the tube.
I took out some springs which slide over the tubing and allow you to deform and shape the tube without narrowing the inner diameter.
It took a lot of tweaking to get the shape just right. You want to make sure the loops are close enough to the U-810 so that they don't interfere with the gear pants.
It's also best that the inner loop loops around the gear leg in front of the brake cylinder. as the brake cylinder itself is wide and moves.

In the image below, I'm close to finalising the loop. The tube still needs to be cut and flanged on the AN fitting.

Yesterday I started sanding on the pilot wheel pant and today I continued some more fine tuning on the mating of the front and rear half to get that "as good as possible" mating line.
The height differences matter to the airflow but other than that I guess the join line is a pure esthetic thing to please the eye of the admiring visitor at airshows.

The joint is now as good as I can possibly get it and I'm pleased with this result. I also marked some black sharpie line to ensure the relation between the two stays the same while you take it apart multiple times for more sanding.

The seam now finally looks the way I want it and I will move on to the next step.

The next step for me is drawing the centerline on the wheel fairing. This sounds easier than it is in reality. There are hardly no reference points and especially the front point is a bit tricky.
I got out the laser level again and made the setup on the tripod on the workbench. The rear is centered and squeezed between 2 squares. I had to place some scrap aluminum spacers between the bench and the right side to keep the back aligned with the squares. The cutout in the bottom is not equal and this makes that you cannot just rest it on the cutout and rely on being level.
The laser projected it's beam across the wheel pant. The yellow paper tape is just to make it easier to draw a sharp line and measure accuratly.

The the gear leg fairings completed, the next step is to prepare and install the wheel pants. They come as a front and a rear part which slide together at the wheel axel.
The shape and outer surface is already very good as they come from the factory, but the fit at the join is awfull and needs to be mated to fit as good as possible.
The best way to evaluate the gap is to slide the parts together, hold the tail up on a workbench and rotate the wheel pant around. As you can see in the image below, the gap is uneven and bumpy and requires a lot of your love to get it fitting well.
The bad part of the story is that this means sanding epoxy again and that's a non-fun and hazardous dusty job. So make sure you don't forget your face mask for respiratory protection.
The plans indicate where you'll probably will find problem area's. Most of it is located due to the join of epoxy layers on the tail cone forward top side. I had to sand away quite a bit of material in order to get an even and smooth transition.

One of the difficulties is that the two parts don't have a locked in good mating position. The bottom cut outs are irregular and different on both parts so you can't use that to find the best fit. So it becomes a "feel the sweet spot". Once the inner lip is sanded smooth, the 2 parts slide a bit easier and you can kind of feel where the best position is. However unfortunatly it's not science and more like an artist thing to get the sweet spot.

Today was one of those days that makes airplane building fun. 
It was a long day but it was definitly worth it.
(Keep reading till the end, there's a nice video of the lights at the end of the article )

As all my electrical connections are made for the aircraft lights, I decided that I wanted to see it all in action with the wings on and the tips attached. I also needed to re-test my com radio and this is better done with the plane outside than in the workshop. Now with all the tips and fairings attached, this will give a more finished view of the airplane overall and leads to some good photo-memory-moments.

Slipping the wings on took a while and went more difficult than I remember from the last time but in the end we managed to slide the temporary bolts in place. The tips went on and the electrical connectors attached. With the RV standing on it's own legs, this is truly a wonderfull sight. As you can see, this was in front of my garage with the public street in front of it. No need to say I got a lot of very strange and surprised faces as people walked by.