I had rivetted the bottom attach plates on but came to realize that the edge transition from cowling to fuselage was not smooth enough. A shim would be needed to make the step from the bracket to the fuselage skin larger.
Unfortunatly this also meant drilling out all the rivets I had previously set.

Before drilling out the rivets, I decided to drill the remaining holes in the bottom cowling using the cleco adapters as a drill guide. You can see the cleco adapters with cleco's installed in the picture below.

I also started trimming the cowling at the lower fuselage sides. It takes a lot of iterations having the cowl on and off before you get this perfect.
In the image below, the edges were trimmed and I installed 2 #30 cleco"s in the cleco adapters.

It looks quite cool to have the lower cowl finally on in it's final position.

The gap in the front looks very good and is approximalty 0.25". Right were I wanted it to be.

Another picture.

You can still fine tune the edge a bit using a long sanding block. Don't try to sand locally by hand, it will ruin your straight line.
I had to trim an additional bit towards the top of the lower cowl. This moved the whole cowl slightly. You don't have to take away much material to get a significant result in the front.  If the gap is too large, you can always fill it up later but be precise. Mine butts against the fuselage and will need to be sanded down a bit more to allow for the 0.02" paint gap. The more precise now, the more playroom there will be to sand the final gap. I'm pretty happy with what I have now.

Spacing spinner cowl from passenger side.

Then I trimmed the other side of the fuselage and used the same procedure.

On the inside you can see the cowling hanging from the 2 top cleco adapters. Have someone supporting the bottom as you drill these 2 holes to ensure the cowl fits snug against the brackets.

The I worked on making shims of 0.032" aluminum. I realised now why these long strips in the finishing kit were supplied but unfortunatly I used them already on the elevator and rudder fairings. Damn... cutting long straight lines ain't easy. I then installed the shim behind the fuselage edge, held them in place with cleco clamps and drill all holes.

All holes drilled #40, the shim is now ready for deburring and dimpling.

When all 4 were ready, I used the spray can to put primer on them.

Legal Mumbo-Jumbo

It’s possible (not likely) that I’m not as smart as I think I am. (Occasionally, I have moments when I know this to be true. Fortunately, the feeling passes quickly.) Although I have tried to make this information as accurate as I can, it is not only possible, but also quite likely, that erroneous and misguided information lurks within these pages. I cannot and do not warrant these pages to be error free and correct. Furthermore, I accept no liability for the use of this (mis)information. And, as many would say, your mileage may vary. If, after reading this, you are intent on proceeding, please be aware that the contents of this site are protected by copyright (copyright © 2011 and 2012). Nonetheless, you may copy this material subject to these two conditions: (1) any information used is for non-commercial purposes, and (2) the source of the material is properly credited. Of course, you may link to any page herein. At some articles, snippets of the plans from Vans are visible. These are for educational and illustrations purposes only and should never be used as plans for part construction or assembly as plans may have changed since the picture was taken and more important they are protected by Copyright by the Vans Aircraft Mothership company.